Leiden

Leiden is just down the road (or tracks) from Amsterdam, maybe 25 miles. Distances in the Netherlands seem weirdly expanded, or, my mind is compressed. Leiden feels like it is far away, kind of like the distance between Starkville and Birmingham, or Tampa and Miami.
  

The municipality of Leiden has a population of 122,565, but the city forms one densely connected agglomeration with its suburbs, with around 190,000 inhabitants. Leiden is located on the Old Rhine. It is 12 miles from The Hague to its south. A university city since 1575, Leiden houses Leiden University, the oldest university of the Netherlands and Leiden University Medical Center.

Leiden actually has a castle built around 1150ad on top of an artificial hill. In the 1500's the  outer wall- its shape instantly recognizable- was constructed.  

The old town within the walls is much smaller than central Amsterdam and is less dense and has a slower pace. In other words, little danger from bikes, scooters, trams and buses.